It took much more than the “lick of paint” that so annoyed Sybil Fawlty in the famous episode featuring the unwisely jovial Irish builder – but here M33 is, fully open to the public. Go on board, and you get the sights and sounds of a ship alive. You see the crew’s quarters, just as if they’d just left them. The tiny officer’s wardroom, with a wind-up gramophone playing a hit of the day. Food stores, with a selection of WWI tinned food. The shells in racks. Machine guns in position on deck. Then go down to the former engine room for a stunning audio-visual presentation about the Gallipoli campaign – they call it immersive, and it really is: as the shells burst and the guns roar, M33 shudders as if in sympathy with her fallen comrades from the disaster of Gallipoli.